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Can someone point me in the right direction to either a link or a description of the proper way to sharpen a curved chissel. I use scary sharp on flat chissels and plane irons, but what about those curves. Can't seem to get them right. thanks

If you can, get yourself a copy of 'The complete Guide to Sharpening" by
Leonard Lee (Taunton Press, ISBN 1-56158-067-8). It covers sharpening
of just about any sort of tool.

Cheers Martin

Mike,
Good question! Something I've been wondering about myself.
I wonder if this might work. Lay the curved chisel on its side and trace an outline of its curve onto the side of a piece of hardwood, and cut that curve carefully with a bandsaw, then line that with the scarey sharp papers to get the backside of the chisel. The front can still be sharpened flat, I think.

CrowDuck

_________________
Chris Nielsen
Soquel, CA.

Mike this is going to be extremely hard to convey in words but is really
quick and easy,
With one of the slipstones, the wite one in the photo

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?
c=2&p=50233&cat=1,43072

I hold it between my thumb and forfinger and in a movement that looks
like I am rocking my hand Point to me with thumb point to you with
finger. The slipstone moves in a rocking motion. With the right hand, I
hold the gouge near its tip and rotate it as it touches the stone and
sharpens.
Can I post a little movie here? Truthfully, it works like a little machine.

For the inside channel of the gouge the slipstone has a rounded edge that
I use. 30 seconds per gouge and it shaves hair.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c&p=50233&cat=1,4307 2

Ken's link.   

The method that I use, which is covered in the Leonard Lee book that Martin mentions above, is to carve a trough in one edge of a board and a crown in the other and load these with honing compound.

_________________
Scott Thompson
Port Townsend,WA

"In a perfect world we'd all sing in tune
But this is reality so give me some room"
-Billy Bragg

What Scott said....   Here is a link with a photo and good explanation that shows the trough and crown utilizing some rouge or compound:

http://www.carvingpatterns.com/sharpening-2.htm

_________________
Peter

Have you tried transfering 'scary sharp" by finding dowels of the appropriate radius,wrapping with your abrasive paper and honing? Also, you need to say whether the gouges are in-cannel(bevel inside the gouge) or out- cannel(bevel outside edge of the gouge). The trough and "male" board edge with abrasive papers also work,especially on the out-cannels. On the out-cannels, the rolling push stroke on a stone(oil or diamond-will wreck a waterstone) works well and it is odd just how forgiving this is regarding maintaining the angle-micro bevels work well on gouges too.Ken's suggestion of a little video would be great. It is definitely easier to show than tell.

Here's a Link to a great web site I found today, there's a description there about sharpening gouges. Actually there's a lot of great stuff there that most here would find interesting.

I have tried the trough with paper in it, not compound. It didn't work for me, although I can't figure out why. This morning I discovered the norse woodsmith page and decided to give it a try. I had one great looking edge on the gouge, shinnnny, But still didn't cut well.. I think why angle keeps changin.. I'll figure it out..

[QUOTE=PaulB] Here's a Link to a great web site I found today, there's a description there about sharpening gouges. Actually there's a lot of great stuff there that most here would find interesting.[/QUOTE]

Hey Paul, you allways seem to come up with a good link just when needed, thanks for posting that

Cheers

Kim

Yep cool link Paul, Thanks!

There is a jig for this for out-cannels- OAR- I think I saw it in Hartville and possibly Garrett-Wade.